How to Sew This Dutch Windmill Variation Quilt Block

If you’re looking for a fresh and easy twist on a classic quilt block, this variation of the Dutch Windmill block is a perfect choice! Inspired by the iconic windmills of the Netherlands, this 12″ block combines tradition with simplicity, making it ideal for beginners or seasoned quilters looking for a quick project. With its clean lines and dynamic pinwheel design, this block comes together quickly and is perfect for creating a striking quilt with minimal effort. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through the steps to make your own Dutch Windmill block variation. Let’s get started!

Fabric Requirements for a 12″ Finished Dutch Windmill Variation Quilt Block:

Light/White: 4 – 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles, and 8 – 2.5″ squares
Medium/Peach: 2 – 5″ squares
Dark/Green: 4 – 2.5″ x 6.5″ rectangles, and 2 – 5″ squares

dutch windmill variation fabric requirements

Sewing Directions:

Half Square Triangles:

Step 1:

Using the Medium/Peach and Dark/Green 5″ squares, sew together four Half Square Triangle (HST) units like the ones in the picture below. Press the seam allowance toward the Dark/Green fabric. Trim/square up the unit to 4.5″ square. You can find a detailed tutorial for sewing Half Square Triangles (HST) at https://quiltembroiderypdf.com/how-to-sew-a-basic-half-square-triangle-block

Pinwheel Unit:

Step 2:

Lay out the four Half Square Triangle units as shown in the picture below. Make sure you have the light and dark sides arranged as shown – it will make a difference!

Step 3:

Sew the half square triangle units together to make a Pinwheel unit as shown in the picture below. You can find my directions for sewing a basic Pinwheel block at https://quiltembroiderypdf.com/pinwheel-quilt-block-pattern.

Step 4:

I’ve used the tweak/twirl/furl method for pressing my seam allowances for the Pinwheel unit. Notice that all the seam allowances are pressed in a counter-clockwise manner. This helps the center of the unit to lay flat.

Rectangle Units:

Step 5:

The Rectangle units are made in the same manner as a Flying Geese unit except that opposite corners are used instead of adjacent corners and the base rectangle is longer.

Using a Dark/Green 2.5″ x 6.5″ rectangle and two Light/White 2.5″ squares, sew together a Rectangle unit. In the picture below you can see the four steps.

Note the orientation of the diagonal line. This is important!

Mark a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back of the Light/White 2.5″ squares.
Sew a Light/White 2.5″ square to the Dark/Green rectangle along the marked line (top image). Note the orientation of the marked line. Repeat on the opposite corner of the rectangle.
Match the corners of the Light/White squares and press (second image).
Open the squares up and trim the seam allowance (third image).
Refold (bottom image).

Step 6:

Repeat Step 5 for a total of four Rectangle units like the ones in the picture below.

Side Units:

Step 7:

Sew a Light/White 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangle to one end of a Step 6 Rectangle unit. Press the seam allowance toward the Rectangle unit as shown in the picture below. Repeat for a total of four Side units.

Putting It All Together:

Step 8:

We’re going to sew the Side units to the Pinwheel unit using partial seam construction. This is much easier than it sounds! I recommend laying out the units so you don’t get confused. Notice that I’ve lined up the middle seam of the Pinwheel unit with the seam of the Side unit.

Step 9:

I recommend to start stitching the top Side unit to the Pinwheel unit at the end where the patches are even (right side of photo). Stitch, matching the seams, and ending about 2″ from the end of the Pinwheel unit. This is your partial seam.

Step 10:

Press the seam allowance away from the Pinwheel unit as shown below.

Step 11:

Stitch the right Side unit to the Step 10 unit as shown below.

Step 12:

Press the seam allowance away from the Pinwheel unit as shown below.

Step 13:

Sew the bottom Side unit to the previous unit and press the seam allowance away from the center of the block.

Step 14:

Repeat Step 13 with the left Side unit.

Step 15:

Finish sewing the partial seam to complete the block. That wasn’t too hard!

Step 16:

Here’s a picture of the back of the block so you can see how it is pressed.

Layout Ideas:

Here’s your basic 4 x 4 layout:

And this one is the same as above but with sashing and cornerstones added.

Here’s a scrappy version:

This example uses a large Hourglass for an alternating block.

This version uses a simple chain block for an alternating block.

This is the traditional coloring for this block. I switched the light and medium fabrics for this tutorial.

This is an on-point example using an alternating Hourglass block.

And finally an on-point layout with a simple chain block for an alternating block.